walther power issues

Discussion in 'Walther' started by ascoughc, Oct 24, 2013.

  1. ascoughc

    ascoughc Member

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    im having power variation in temperature, I was thinking of cleaning the hammer, but how do you get it out, is it a case of unscrewing the power adjuster and taking it out that way?
     
  2. Ratinator

    Ratinator Well-Known Member

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    Hammer removal

    You have to remove the front sear to get the hammer out completely .
     
  3. RobF

    RobF Administrator Staff Member

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    It needs more than that. You have to take the pins out (by drifting) that hold it into the cocking mechanism, and remove the sears as well. Fiddly.

    Have you checked what seal you have on the knock open valve?
     
  4. sven

    sven Member

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    Does your Walther have the white teflon(PTFE) valve seal (part 73)? The older Dommies may have a softer green or blue valve seal which may cause temp sensitivity. The white seal is a 5 euro part. Could sell you one when needed, i've got a spare one. Also check your valve (72) the side that meets the valve seat should be flat. The older ones are cone shaped and prone to temp sensitivity.

    Cleaning the hammmer is no bad idea, it can get greasy and dirty.

    To remove the hammer (see picture for part no's) :
    Unscrew the power adjuster no. 33
    Remove hammerspring 35 with rubber string 50
    Remove cocking lever 3 by unscrewing screw 44 (don't lose washer 20)
    Remove levers 18 (hammer cocking lever) and 8 (loading probe lever)
    Remove pin 43 from the hammer (pin that connects the hammer with the hammer cocking lever) by using a punch through the hole at the right hand side of the action.Line up the hole in the hammer with the hole in the action and give a small tap with a light hammer or end of a screwdriver. Do not to damage the pin. The pin slides in the breech block and the cocking lever and has to be burr free where it touches those parts. It is not a very thight fit so should come loose easliy. The hammer cocking pin has two different ends so make sure you fit it in the right way.
    Remove pin 41 that holds sear 16 by pushing it out with some small punch/screwdriver/hex key , make sure not to lose the washers (91) that are in between the sear and the breechblock
    Remove sear 16
    Remove hammer 17.

    Clean and rebuild in opposite order. A tiny bit of (moly) grease on the contact surfaces of the moving parts (all 3 levers, also the pin of part 3) makes it work smootlly again. No grease/oil on the hammer though!

    Taking apart and rebuilding sounds more difficult than it is. Most diffcult is holding the washers in place when replacing the sear pin 41 and sear 16. I kept them in place with some oil.

    Good luck.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 25, 2013
  5. RobF

    RobF Administrator Staff Member

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    You don't need to undo the cocking mechanism. If you put something on the rail which holds the cocking arm in place so the hammer's pin lines up with the hole in the action then it saves that.

    Remember the hammer's pin only fits one way, if you fit it the wrong way it will fall out. The pin is marked so that the end that should be in the hammer bites.
     
  6. ascoughc

    ascoughc Member

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    many thanks for the info, the last time i had it striped i seem to think it was a green valve seat but,il check again this weekend
     
  7. sven

    sven Member

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    You're absolutely right Rob, I forgot about the hole in the action on the left hand side. The hole is there to give way to a punch to push the pin out of the hammer. Better to it that was than using pliers from the right hand side.
     
  8. ascoughc

    ascoughc Member

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    the area where the valve probe sits is black and looks like its part of the metal body rather than a seal i can remove:confused:
     
  9. RobF

    RobF Administrator Staff Member

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    Can you take a pic and post it? Before saying what's what it would be good to make sure we are talking about the right bit.
     
  10. sven

    sven Member

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    There is normally a seal in white, green or blue (part no 73) that sits under the valve part no. 72. (see picture in my first post above for part no's.)
    If it is not there I suggest you put one in ;)

    But a pic would be good, as I cannot imagine the seal not being there and your only problem being temp sensitivity. Is the valve seating area cone or flat?
     
  11. ascoughc

    ascoughc Member

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  12. larro

    larro New Member

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    Well looking at that picture there is either no seal or it is a black one. What I would do is get hold of a sewing needle or pin and gently push it into the 'seal ' to see if there is any give. That would tell you if there is a seal there or not.
     
  13. mikewills8904

    mikewills8904 walthers last the course

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    Seal

    The picture shows the seal in place ,it has been replaced from the original Walther seal for a delrin one
     
  14. mikewills8904

    mikewills8904 walthers last the course

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    Don't go pushing needles in it as you will damage it

    The seal is defiantly there as I have just re built a Walther with a leak on the firing valve seal from where the reg seals on it and not the firing valve
     
  15. Neil

    Neil MFTA Winter League Champion 2011 and winner of som

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    Tremendous advice here Chris, crack on lad, sorted in no time.
     
  16. ascoughc

    ascoughc Member

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    lol, that's why I didn't want to tamper with cos it would f it up, so why the black seal. its a micktromas titanium gun, and doesn't have the green or white seal so who knows the exact spec
     
  17. RobF

    RobF Administrator Staff Member

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  18. RobF

    RobF Administrator Staff Member

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    I will pull my spare apart tomorrow for comparison :)
     
  19. Numb Nut

    Numb Nut New Member

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    Pics aren't clear but I'd agree with mikewills8904, looks like there is a black valve plastic seal fitted in there, could be made from delrin which should work better than the original walther valve seat. Mine had a white plastic valve seat from the factory which gradually developed a recess under the valve and caused the power to drop.
     
  20. RobF

    RobF Administrator Staff Member

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