Target Colours

Discussion in 'UKAHFT Official Forum' started by Scooby, Jun 6, 2011.

?

Why can't you see the killzone

  1. Yellow faceplates with Black kill not contrasting enough

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  2. White faceplates with Black kill not contrasting enough

    5.1%
  3. Target area too dark

    6.8%
  4. Faceplate & kill that shot up so couldn't distinguish the kill zone

    47.5%
  5. Not had a problem at all

    40.7%
  1. Scooby

    Scooby Pete Dutton

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2008
    Messages:
    2,619
    Location:
    Rotherham
    Last year we stipulated only White or Yellow faceplates with Black kills for UKAHFT nationals but we've heard some shooters are having problems making the kills out on the targets once they have been shot up.

    If you have struggled to see the kill zone at either Treetops or Wendover why was this ???
     
  2. rogb

    rogb Señor Member

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2009
    Messages:
    605
    Location:
    London
    Pete, when the paint flakes off and all you have is silver-grey metal on the paddle and around the kill, it doesn't make any difference what colour the target is.

    White or yellow faceplates are great for fast target acquisition especially in dark areas.

    I was shooting some black targets with white kills in the woods on Saturday and the paint was flaking off very quickly and nearly every shooter said the 15mm was nearly impossible to make out the kill at closer ranges. Good eyes and good scope help a lot.

    I shot with my springer and EB first and it was very hard to see the kill. Tried later with my the Steyr and Bushnell and it was slightly easier to make out.

    I do remember one 18 or so yarder 15mm at Wendover in a dark area where it was very difficult to make out the kill when it had been shot up.

    I did try preparing faceplates very carefully last winter by blowtorching the old paint, wirebrushing on the drill back to bare metal then priming with good quality Halfords grey and then painting with Halfords satin. The paint didn't flake off during comps and you could see individual pellet strikes more clearly but Jeez it was a &*^% of a lot of work!:D

    For important comps, it could be worth doing, I took the targets home and did a few each day, so it wasn't too bad.
     
  3. Nuggat

    Nuggat BFTO

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2009
    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Reading
    Club:
    BISLEY
    If you have struggled to see the kill zone at either Treetops or Wendover why was this ???[/QUOTE]

    I personally think the face plate colours what ever they are doesnt make a lot of difference unless you are lucky enough to be able to bracket the targets, in which case the lighter the colour the easier the bracketing should become, however the kill zones if painted black I sometimes find can be tricky to pick an aim point through the scope..ie..black mil dot against black kill zone for example? Sometimes also if using mildots it can actually blot the whole kill zone at certain distances as well. :)

    In general I believe unless anyone can find a material that doesnt deface or loose colour with the impact of pellets there isnt much that can be done and its the luck of the draw. "keep painting people" :D
     
  4. Scooby

    Scooby Pete Dutton

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2008
    Messages:
    2,619
    Location:
    Rotherham
    So would that be option 4 then Rog ???

    I think that is part of the problem that clubs hosting a UKAHFT national tend to use newish targets & they seem worse for flaking, I can remember setting the American side of an Anglo american where we used brand new 15 & 25mm nockover targets & the paint flaked off in huge pieces when missed.
     
  5. Scooby

    Scooby Pete Dutton

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2008
    Messages:
    2,619
    Location:
    Rotherham
    It's not really "luck of the Draw" as we specify that all the reducers & positionals are spread around the course, this means that everyone will shoot reducers in all states
     
  6. Scooby

    Scooby Pete Dutton

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2008
    Messages:
    2,619
    Location:
    Rotherham
    Could we only have people voting who shot Treetops or Wendover please guys, we are purely asking those shooters :)
     
  7. rogb

    rogb Señor Member

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2009
    Messages:
    605
    Location:
    London
    Yes and no, generally no problem at all but now and again a close shot up reducer can be very hard to make out, Pete, white and yellow, as I said, for fast target finding, and I think this has really helped speeding up the sessions, but once the paints off the important areas, it makes not a bit of difference to taking your shot.
    When you're aiming, you're looking at the kill and the area around it, the very part where the paint goes off:)
    Like I said, if you prepare the targets carefully the finish lasts a hell of a lot longer, but it's a right pain to do it.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2011
  8. Scooby

    Scooby Pete Dutton

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2008
    Messages:
    2,619
    Location:
    Rotherham
    You tend to find a lot of clubs do prepare their targets, if you take Treetops for example all those targets were completely stripped of paint & resprayed but you can still get some flaking.

    Was your trial undertaken with similar shooter numbers to a UKAHFT national & was it 2 sessions, I'm wondering if we are getting more of a problem in the 2nd session when you have another layer of paint on the faceplate, some of it on top of bare metal & some on the morning session paint.
     
  9. A458

    A458 Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2009
    Messages:
    188
    Location:
    Cressage, Shropshire
    Club:
    Furnace Mill
    Kill zones

    I agree that we have problems with paint flaking off from both the kill zone and the area around it, especially when the view is not in focus such as 15mm kills within 15 yards, as we all know we are unable to focus these closer targets and when you are the last of a large number who have just missed the kill, it becomes a problem. If the smaller kill zones within 15 yards could be repainted after say 10 groups have shot, then less misses may occur; but if we do this, then others may want targets at other distances also repainting, which will cause additional time for the session. Finding the correct non-flaking paint seems the best answer, but as I miss most I'm a fine one to talk! Good luck with a solution.
    Ian.
     
  10. Scooby

    Scooby Pete Dutton

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2008
    Messages:
    2,619
    Location:
    Rotherham
    I wonder if paint thickness is a contributing factor, when we paint the targets we tend to go a bit overboard to make sure they are nice & bright, maybe a thicker layer has a greater the tendancy to flake.
     
  11. raygun

    raygun Non member

    As a club Rivi use Yellow Line paint for the faceplates and fluorescent red for the kills. After a lot of testing most people found this the best option.

    On a personal basis I found the targets at Treetops both easy to find and when shot up, enough contrast left between the now silvery colour of the kill and the yellow faceplate.

    With Wendover I found that the white faced targets were more difficult to find (that could have been placement/conditions) and when the kill was shot up difficulty in differentiating the silvery kill from the white faceplate.

    Overall I prefer the yellow faceplates and black kill out of the available options. I also think it important that UKAHFT do stipulate the colours to be used to ensure conformity.

    ATB
    Ray.
     
  12. Scooby

    Scooby Pete Dutton

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2008
    Messages:
    2,619
    Location:
    Rotherham
    Yeh, repainting target during a session is a non starter as someone will always be at a disadvantage so we'd end up having to repaint the targets for every shooter.
     
  13. Scooby

    Scooby Pete Dutton

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2008
    Messages:
    2,619
    Location:
    Rotherham
    Hi Ray,

    I have to agree that I prefer Yellow faceplates, I know we recently painted our HFT targets at Redfearns white instead of the usual yellow & some shooters couldn't see the white targets on the floor amongst the bluebells.
     
  14. RobF

    RobF Administrator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2010
    Messages:
    11,663
    Location:
    Poole, Dorset
    Club:
    Parkstone Gun Club, South Dorset FTC, Southampton Buccaneers
    If the base surface is rougher, before any paint is applied, flakes tend to be smaller... but you can get some big flakes on first paint, even being sparing, because the flake has more strength across it than it's adheration to the base layer... roughening the base layer creates folds in the paint, which are weak points, and limit the flake size...

    it's a bit like scoring glass and smashing it... you get different size peices.

    try cleaning the plate with a heavy rotary wire so it's scored and then painting... but to be honest, mini kills will always end up quite blank... even 40 and 45's do if everyone keeps missing on the same side.... the only thing i have ever thought of is making the kill out of a different metal, something like brass, which should resist greying up against the colour of a blank plate... but i suspect brass might be too soft?:confused:
     
  15. rogb

    rogb Señor Member

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2009
    Messages:
    605
    Location:
    London
    Yes for the LV UK round I did and the Southern Hunter, I repainted both with the same Halfords satin, I don't remember any significant flaking only some moaning about a "Kneel or Stand" sign:eek::D:D:D:D

    Sorry...:eek::shot::D

    But as I said and Rob reiterated, the heavy wire rotary gives a good key for the primer, I wonder if etching primer as used for ally would be any better - all we need is a metallurgist to tell us if it will etch the steel plate:rolleyes::):p
     
  16. Rift

    Rift "Agent"

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Messages:
    435
    Location:
    Essex
    Club:
    M.A.D
    Although this is only my first season properly shooting HFT i already prefer a yellow faceplate with black kill. On the 15mm close kills with my scope at 24y i can see enough even on a shot up target as i can see the distinction between face plate and kill, but closer than 10y it doesnt matter too much as im aiming at an area, not a point on a paddle.
    At distance in shadow, say in a tree i find the contrast between yellow and black better than white and black.

    Cant really say at Treetops or Wendover i had a huge problem with any target..I just accept its the luck of the draw as to where you start the course.

    Alex
     
  17. Scoch

    Scoch HOW!!!

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Messages:
    466
    Location:
    Dundee, Scotland
    Club:
    Tayside Airgun Club
    Rather bizarrely, I put out the new targets on our home course and I left the 4 15mm kills unfinished, just heated and dipped in oil.

    Never had a problem seeing the kill zones, cant explain why this works but it did, paddle and killzone both unpainted and even when they had been shot to death the KZ was as clear as day. Strangely enough, it didnt work with the bigger kzs, anyone else tried and noticed this.

    It was done as an experiment to try to make things more awkward but had the very opposite effect?
     
  18. 5teve L

    5teve L STOP ! HAMMER TIME !

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2009
    Messages:
    1,158
    Location:
    Horsham, West Sussex.
    Club:
    The Oaks & Horsham hawks
    The only time I really struggle is with close in, shot up mini kills in dark places. If they are in the open then you can usually see them ok, if I struggle a bit then I just get the string pulled so it wobbles the paddle. Have to admit it's not so much of a problem since I swapped to the Nikko Sniper from my MTC.
    Thinking about it, I can sometimes loose the mildot on the black kill with the Nikko as it's not illuminated, usually on the longer targets, bringing my head on & off will sort that though.
    We also noticed the new targets flake alot more unless they are prepped, we also tried painting the kills & then sticking clear plastic (not brittle stuff, poly something) onto the kill, don't think it would stay on for a UK comp though unfortunatly.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2011
  19. Dazzzle

    Dazzzle New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2010
    Messages:
    309
    Location:
    South Wales
    Club:
    Quarry Hunters
    I didn't have a problem at Treetops but I found a number of targets at Wendover were difficult because of flaking, not particularly mini-kills but for example the rocket/xmas tree target was so badly flaked I was only able to see the base of the target. I don't have perfect eyesight but that was the most awkward as far as I was concerned. Yellow/black seems better, though paint quality and target prep is important.
     
  20. NarkyMark

    NarkyMark New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2009
    Messages:
    119
    Location:
    Runcorn, Cheshire
    Club:
    TAWD VALE
    The only Target from both of those competitions that I struggled with was the Arrow at Wendover, I do feel White and Silver is a no, no though :), I have never had an issue with any Yellow Target yet, but then again my eyes are pretty good, so I can't speak for everyone!
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice