Discussion in 'Steyr' started by RobF, May 10, 2018.
Buy one get one free friday?
That could be because the problem hasn't been seen before.
I don't know if I can see your photos properly but the face of that seal looks very rough. I know that it's been marked by the adjuster but I wonder how flat it was before. I wonder if that because it might not be perfectly flat then the adjuster is kicked off axis and therefore moves. But then I also wonder why it's able to move... because I thought the locking cap stopped it moving, that is the purpose of the locking cap... otherwise if the adjuster can move it would seal at different points (if there was a perfect seal) and you would have a reg that varies in pressure. I forget what shim thickness makes a difference but it's a small amount for several bar.
Beyond those ideas I can't help. I've not seen that problem before.
And round and round we go.
does the cap not only go down to a step just above the thread for the adjuster and the seal on the screw adjuster stop it from moving . i'm new to doing steyr regs so i might be wrong just looked that way to me.
Cap with two holes do not touches the adjuster. It does not lock it. There is a gap between the adjuster and the cap. So you are right - adjuster able to move. I do not know how it was on old regs, but on new this is so.
I just touched the adjuster by screwdriver and saw how it moves without screw/unscrew. I will do a video record next time. It is very easy to move it. It can be moved by air purge for example.
If positions is not overlapping - ok, but moving is not so huge, and new position will overlap with old one, and reg will creep. Locking cap is a great solution, but unfortunately it does not lock
Been following these threads on Steyr regs for some time now, and today I took the plunge and purchased a digital pressure gauge.
Made in China, but a friend has been using one for a few months without any issues.
Accuracy of 0.25%
0 - 250 bar
Sample rate can be set at 100, 200, 500 or 1000 ms.
Min and max recording and auto shut down can be set or disabled.
Replaced the analogue gauge on my reg tester and discovered that my spare reg was slowly creeping. Could not see this so easily on analogue gauge.
Stripped the reg, replaced orings on piston and adjuster. Lightly resurfaced seal on piston.
Washers are standard configuration ()()()() with one 0.3mm shim.
Don't know if reg must be split or assembled when setting adjuster to roughly middel, but I set it when split to just before halfway at 2.5 turns out. as a starting point. Perhaps Chris can come in here.
Assembled reg and first pressure reading was at 70.4 bar. Reset adjuster a few times, ending at 3.25 turns out.
Noticed that pressure was slowly climbing and not settling.
Stripped reg again and found that the large oring on piston had been damaged probably by the sleeve on assembly. Replaced oring and reg settled within 20 seconds to 83.2 bar with a cylinder pressure of 120 bar.
Tested at 200 bar and reg pressure slowly dropped from 83.2 to 83.0. Suspect this is the seal bedding in.
Been on test for more than an hour and still sitting at 83.0 bar.
Unfortunately I don't have an inline tester, so I can't test recovery time from shot to shot. If I use the bleed valve it settles within 20 to 30 seconds.
I also noticed that the cap does not lock the adjuster in place. There is a slight shoulder inside the neck that stops the cap.
If the adjuster is above this shoulder height, then the cap locks it and turns it a small amount back in.
I have had a reg where the adjuster moved and reg pressure increased over a few months from 120 to 150 bar.
Was wondering if you could place a small oring under the cap as a gap filler/spacer.
He has already had a new reg and promptly stripped it down, Some things are beyond understanding, Some people are beyond help
When adjuster was above and could be locked by cap I got the pressure more than 100bar...
New reg worked not correct. Pressure was 100bar, creep, slow restore, etc.
Ah i thought it did. I just test them, not build them. I know how they work in principle but not all the parts exactly.
Well then I have no idea why we're not seeing the issue. I can only think of what is different and that is the material used.
I tried to make a shim (ring) to fill the gap. It is workaround, but not perfect. I think better way is to make a new adjuster with exact thread.
I think the oring on the adjuster is supposed to keep it in place. I have replaced 3 so far and only one had enough resistance not to move.
The other 2 have very little resistance.
Orings are 1.5 x 1 mm in size.
Unfortunately not. You are talking about rotate right? But it has a gap inside thread. You can easily move the neck of adjuster from right to the left for example.
Correct, the adjuster is a very loose fit in the neck of the reg. The issue I had was that it was rotating.
Ive spoken with steyr many times about this issue of the adjuster moving under its own accord, on the pistol regs its even worse.
Some regs are worse than others, it's down to the ID of the neck, the thickness of the anodising plays a part too. It needs either a larger o ring or some method of locking it. I've even tryed putting aluminium foil inside the recess on the reg where the small o ring fits, to try expand it but it allows air to pass underneath the o ring.
Steyr need to come up with a solution to rectify this.
Found this on the good old internet....
Adjustable and reusable threadlocker.
Vibra-tite VC-3 threadmate.
Might be the answer to loose fitting adjuster.......or wrap dental floss around the threads
The problem with any type of thread lock is it will finally contaminate inside the reg. Further more it will harden and stay insde the threads of the reg body. These will clog up the threads eventually causing problems on future serving. What makes this difficult to overcome is the adjuter threads are tiny.
Got a little parcel
Take a look at the nozzle caps
All of these have been on a tester at the factory .
They're going on again in a minute