Steyr New & Old springs - Ref Picture

Discussion in 'Steyr' started by JasonGoldsmith66, Jul 17, 2010.

  1. JasonGoldsmith66

    JasonGoldsmith66 Banned

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    The 'pinging' is supposedly caused by the top hammer & spring you see on the pic.

    The newer wide one below it, is the one that has cured that noise...not sure if that is factory replacement, or hand made jobby ?

    Info & pics from luchtbuks.net (Holland)
     

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  2. Conor

    Conor Never been banned from sales Staff Member

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    WRONG.
    The top one was designed for the latest lG110 models, earlier LG110 models had the same set up as the all LG100's, the pic on the bottom.
    'Ping' simply cured with heat shring over the hammer (thin end) which the spring went over.;)
    hth Conor
     
  3. wiseguy

    wiseguy Active Member

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    Indeed wrong order, picture is from one of my posts in NL forum regarding upgrading the LG110 to external V0 possibility.
    A simple cut-open straw from McDonalds inside the hammer spring is also a good remedy for the "ping" sound.
    The new hammer also has the advantage that there is less resistance of the hammer agains the cocking mechanism during firing resulting im even more consistant shot speeds.
    New hammer (top one), spring and external velocity screw are not very expensive (about 75 Euro total) and modification is very easy.
    I have a list of all item part numbers needed for this modification, if people are intersted let me know and I will post the list.
    Are UK version (non-FAC) of the L110FT also equipped with this external V0 screw possibility ? I know regulations are very strict in the UK regarding the 12fpe limit and this way the limit might be exceeded perhaps very easy unintentionaly.
    Off course the new hammer/spring can also be used with the old "internal" type velocity screw, which can be accessd by taking of the stock.
    regards,
    Rob
     

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    Last edited: Jul 17, 2010
  4. AndyJ

    AndyJ Member

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    Top hammer in pic is the later one and doesn't suffer from "pinging" as much as the earlier (lower) version;)
     
  5. chrispro97

    chrispro97 New Member

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    the top woz designed for newer 110 with external power adjuster,the bottom 1 is out of early 110 or 100 and 10 metre match guns,as lsr said it is not a home made jobby
     
  6. JasonGoldsmith66

    JasonGoldsmith66 Banned

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    I stand corrected :eek:

    My Dutch (not spoken nor read) or Google translator wasnt so clear after all :D
    :cool:
     
  7. JasonGoldsmith66

    JasonGoldsmith66 Banned

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    Thanks for clarifying Rob...well, your written English is rather outstanding compared to my non existent Dutch :D

    My UK sourced FT indeed came with the external power adjustor per your attached pic, and therefore I think all UK FTs have this; though Ive heard Steyr has now done something to the cocking mechanism for UK imports, so that if you 'accidently' over tweak the adjustor power wise, the cocking arm no longer fully closes ?...Has anyone asked Harry Preston from which Official UK import serial # gun is affected ???
     
  8. chrispro97

    chrispro97 New Member

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    just to say you hav to machine the inside of the gun to accept the new type hammer assy,old type has a different od size etc,harry preston done this mod on my 100 b4 i brought it of a guy on bbs and it cost him £200 for the mod,so all my steyr hav the new mod,worked on 1 jurying the week(old 100 barley) and you cannot fit the new hammer to this without machine inside the gun to accept the new hammer etc:D:D:D
     
  9. wiseguy

    wiseguy Active Member

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    Interesting :eek:
    We even did this mod on a club members Steyr LG100 ourselves and the only part that needs to be machined is the black plastic bezel shown on the photo, as the external V0 screw needs some space outside the frame.
    200 pound for the modification....:eek: ..., as said earlier the needed parts are about 75 Euro (60 pound), so imho the rest is for work and profit.... oh well, everybody has to earn a living.
    Believe me, this mod can be done even by someone with two left hands.
    But if you want more proof, I can make a picture serie when swapping these parts, I have a set of parts ready for modification of another LG110HP into a LG110FT 16J (12fpe).
    On the attached picture are all the parts needed for that, including another regulator (85 bar) as the HP has a 120 bar regulator fitted. Even a ready machined plastic bezzle was ordered, although this can be easily done by yourselve (at least i did with my Steyrs). If you look good, you can see the part numbers and description written on the bags by Steyr in German.
    No rocketscience, straight swap. A chrony might be useful for adjusting the power after the swap.
    regards,
    Rob
     

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  10. JasonGoldsmith66

    JasonGoldsmith66 Banned

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    Interesting to know 'Mr. Wiseguy' :eek:

    Yes, please post more pics of before and after mods on the standard HP :D
     
  11. Conor

    Conor Never been banned from sales Staff Member

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    Someone has either been well and truly RIPPED:mad:, or someone is telling prokies:confused:,

    as said very simple procedure take old one out, add new ones, easy peasy, just cut plastic trigger guard to allow external adjuster.

    Have to agreewith you wiseguy

    Conor
     
  12. JEV

    JEV Member

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    Interesting stuf Rob. If the new hammer/spring can also be used with the old "internal" type velocity screw, I assume the new external power adjuster can be used with the old type LG110 hammer and spring.
    It is also worth mentioning that the 7.5J adjuster and spring are different again from the FT versions on the LG110, having just converted one to 16J.In this instance Mr Preston also told me the action body would need machining out and this proved not to be the case as the hammers are the same in both 7.5J & 16J guns. The prices Mr preston charges for parts and service work are excessive also.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2010
  13. wiseguy

    wiseguy Active Member

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    I can make no judgement on the charged prices for this modification, but the needed work is much easier as told.
    On the new spring I want to remark that the 24J version of the .177 uses the same spring as the 16J, it only has an extra separate metal ball at the end of the spring inside the external V0 screw side.
    If the new hammer spring is used without the new V0 screw, using the older internal screw, it might be that the power is too high as the hammer spring is pushed in too far.
    If you replace the regulator with the HP version (120 bar, about 85 euro) and swap the barrel to .22 (polygon :) ) you end up with a full FAC .22 40J airgun even perfect for 100mtr shoots. (please remove this remark if not allowed on this forum)
    In this the Stery LG110 concept is super service friendly and flexible. Also the support, even direct from Steyr is superb, only look at the YouTube service video's :)
    regards,
    Rob
     
  14. chrispro97

    chrispro97 New Member

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    tryed to fit new type 1 last week and it needs machine inside to correct od on the 100 to fit new type hammer,not just the plastic trigger matey,od on the new 1 is to big matey you hav to machine the action:confused:
     
  15. greyskullnz

    greyskullnz Non member

    I converted my 24 J model LG110 2 years ago when the retro ft kit was first announced.

    The old type hammer ans spring will not work with the new adjuster without packing the back of the spring. The new hammer and spring will not work with the old type internal adjuster as the spring is too long and the "internal cup" where the spring is located will not allow full adjustment.

    In the end I decided not to fit the new hammer, spring and regulator that came with the kit (this would have made it 16j max with the new reg), but did fit the new trigger guard assembly and the external adjuster, with a packer behind the existing spring.

    This still gives me adjustment up to 24J with the original regulator, hammer and spring, and it works well at 16J, as the shorter spring has a stiffer/quicker throw than the dedicated 16J longer spring and hammer setup. Chrony's at avg 1.5fps deviation.

    Adjustment is as intended with the rear external adjuster and little pin.

    Just make a packer out of brass tube, to sit behind the spring inside the external adjuster.

    GS
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 19, 2010
  16. rogb

    rogb Señor Member

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    Hi mate, thanks for pics, where would you suggest is the best place for UK Steyr owners to source these parts from?
    (ie from somewhere reliable outside the UK)
    Thanks
     
  17. wiseguy

    wiseguy Active Member

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    Indeed that is also a possibility, using the new V0 screw with the old hammer/spring. The V0 screw costs about 15 euro.
    But one important thing doesn't improve that way and that is the possible less consistent shot speeds with the old hammer. Let me explain.
    As seen in the first picture in the start topic, the new hammer has another design, not on the front, but more specific in the centre part. This part is completely round, but thin, as the old hammer only has a flat surface in that area.
    The resistance from the old hammer inside the action and the resistance from the flat area against the cocking roller ( when the hammer surface is not fully flat, but turns/twists a little inside the action tunnel) results in possible inconsistant hammer force against the valve.
    The new hammer design eliminates this issue, but by taking material away it was lighter, this was resolved by the new end-design where the spring is now inside the hammer. The new hammer is now comparable with the old hammer regarding weight. As a side-effect the "ping" sound was also resolved.
    The old LG100 hammer/spring is still used in the HP versions, where the hammer resistance issue inside the action has far less effect on the shot speeds.
    Once again, there is no reason why the new hammer/spring/screw can't be used in a LG100 , "old" LG110FT or LG110HP as the actions are the same.
    Perhaps Chrispro97 can explain what is the/his issue why the new hammer needs machining, as I (and other people) have done this without any machining inside the action.
    regards,
    Rob
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2010
  18. chrispro97

    chrispro97 New Member

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    il let you guys tommorrow il be doing the 100 in question,and il take photos showing this
     
  19. greyskullnz

    greyskullnz Non member

    For dedicated 16J models, i would say yes do the changeover. But my experience with the 24J model over 2 years now since receiving it, working my way through (the stiff cocking point issue as advised by Steyr) little niggles has shown me that the 24J model is a little different from the dedicated 16J models you have.

    I had a bit of time for comparison with a UK version another shooter who emigrated here brought with him. His pinged badly, and had a slightly longer throw on the hammer spring hence a slightly slower lock time,...."slightly".

    My version never ever had a ping, even from new at any energy adjustment. It seems to have a stiffer spring as standard. Obviously the regulator is different, and possibly the porting.

    I did not have a reason to change what was working well, to sacrifice available energy if I so desired as we have no current legal issues with that as you do.

    My model is the LG110FT 24J.

    I'm not making a comment on whether or not one should or should not do a conversion, or whether your consistency will improve or not on 16J models. All I can comment upon is that the 24J models are much better behaved, even in their original configuration, without ping or consistency issues due to the hammer. Perhaps the 16J models do indeed need a different hammer design than the other models.........

    Stiff cocking/hammer action seems to have worked its way out of the operation over time. Whether that is due to the advice on lube given by Steyr tech to me at the time, or just wearing the rifle in over the last two years constant use,..........I am unsure, but suspect that has more to do with it. I just know it is working well set down at 16J with no issues, so I won't change anything further until I have reason to.

    All the best

    GS
     
  20. JEV

    JEV Member

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    Th e ID of the firing pin hole on my late model LG100 is 8.5mm at the back end. Anyone know the OD of the power adjuster hammer at the rear end.

    It may be that early LG100 are different as the hammer spring is much smaller diameter, requiring a smaller hole!
     

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