steyr help

Discussion in 'Steyr' started by valboskie, Sep 17, 2014.

  1. valboskie

    valboskie Member

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2012
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    Location:
    Greenock Scotland
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    NASGARC AND SCOTIA FT
    Hi there I am wondering if anyone could advise or help me out.
    I dry fired my LG110 tonight and I felt air escaping from the breach.
    I put some paper towel at each side of the bolt next to where the port comes up
    The paper blew away it almost shredded.
    If I put a torch at one side of the bolt I can see clear through the other side
    Is this normal.
    I might have named a few parts wrong I'm not sure of the right terms.
    Any advice would be greatly appreciated
    Cheers
    David
     
  2. RobF

    RobF Administrator Staff Member

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    Location:
    Poole, Dorset
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    Parkstone Gun Club, South Dorset FTC, Southampton Buccaneers
    Sounds like the transfer port isn't sealing.

    Not sure on what the fix is because I'm not that au fait with the things... but I would think the fix is simple.

    Are you 100% sure the barrel is sealing and it's just the port? A tiny amount of talc can help. Just don't get it all over the breech and in the port.
     
  3. scutter

    scutter Aspiring to mediocrity

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    It will be either the o ring in the transfer port or the breach seal. Try taking them out and turning them round. This sometimes works.

    Gary
     
  4. blacklab

    blacklab Member

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    steyr vids

    go to the steyr web site and have a look at their videos to give you a better understanding
     
  5. DazT

    DazT Nursing A Semi !!

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    Have you stripped it prior to this happening ?
    Does the coking bolt close with a solid click?
    It could be that you have over tightened the transfer port, preventing it from sealing against the coking lever. Some Steyrs have a small plastic shim under the transfer port to correct the tolerances.this will have been done by the factory and should be kept like that.
    Or it could be that the barrel is to far forward preventing a seal when the coking lever is closed but this would be evident by the click when you close it.
    Failing the above then it's got to be the seals as scutter mentioned above.
    Hope that helps.
     
  6. robt

    robt Member

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    BFTO. Camberley Rifle & Pistol Club
    Transfer port sealing

    You definitely have a transfer port sealing issue. Check there are actually o rings in the transfer port and the bolt. Some transfer ports come with washers under them, some don't, you may need to add one. Make sure you don't tighten the transfer port too much when you reinstall, it's possible to strip the thread, Very expensive to replace the block it screws into ( £800+!!), also note it goes in at a slight angle, be gentle. When I reinstall I use my thinnest feeler gauge as I close the bolt gently, to make sure there is closure.

    The Steyr videos on YouTube are brilliant, note to other manufacturers, instead of fitting AT, actually help your customers, they're the ones who give you a job.

    Rob.
     
  7. valboskie

    valboskie Member

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    Location:
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    NASGARC AND SCOTIA FT
    Thank you for all the advice .
    I bought the rifle second hand about 3 weeks ago.
    I have never stripped I have shot 2 hft events with it an plinked 100 pellets or so.
    If it is the barrel is it an easy fix to re seat it correctly.
    The transfer port is green with a black washer .
    I have ordered a new transfer port o ring and bolt o ring.
    I will change these to start with.
    Atb
    David
     
  8. chrisc

    chrisc Lucky git

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    Hi David...do you mean the transfer port is black with a green o ring?:)....Steyr have light and dark green o rings but theere's no difference.

    The barrel position is easy enough to set. With scope removed you will see 2 screws at the front/top of the block (sometimes only one screw). Slacken the screws and you'll find that the barrel will now slide fore and aft in the block. Then it's trial and error to position the barrel , tighten a screw and see if you have a definate positive click as the cocking lever closes and locks, too tight and you won't be able to fully close the cocking lever, too slack and the lever will pop open on firing...once happy tighten both screw but be careful not to overtighten. If you strip the threads in the block it will cost up to 400 quid for a block/chassis or if you're lucky a trip to a handy engineer to have the M5 threaded hole drilled and re-threaded/helicoiled.
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2014
  9. JasonGoldsmith66

    JasonGoldsmith66 Banned

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    Rob, is that the action block, or alu housing
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2014
  10. chrisc

    chrisc Lucky git

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    Yep. I mixed it up as well..

    1 gehausetrager Housing/chassis 4106020001 apprx 400
    2,1 abzugseinheit full trigger housing. 413030501 approx 800
     
  11. JasonGoldsmith66

    JasonGoldsmith66 Banned

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    Alu Housing is Euro 399 / £ 314


    Now that Scotland is staying in the fold, Sterling £ is on a Rip... £1.00 = Euro 1.271

    So time to stock up from Europe :D

    :lev

    http://benke-sport.de/online/templatemedia/all_lang/resources/LG110FT.pdf

    NB: Trigger Housing is Euro 330.35 / £ 260
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2014

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