Reaming out my hole...

Discussion in 'Steyr' started by CameronWilson, Dec 7, 2012.

  1. CameronWilson

    CameronWilson Member

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    So it's been suggested that drilling a larger diameter hole in the front barrel support, so that the barrel becomes fully free floating, is a good idea.

    Can anybody recommend someone for the job? I don't really want to have a go myself, given the value of this component!

    Cheers,

    Cam.
     
  2. Conor

    Conor Never been banned from sales Staff Member

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    Johno 'AJP' (knob man)
    Jon Harris
     
  3. Gibbs

    Gibbs New Member

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    I can highly reccommend Johno, his work is supurb.
    I will be opening my Steyr frame up with various grades of wet and dry taped around a dowel and fitted into a drill which should leave a nice polished finish. (No-one will see the finish anyway)

    Atb,

    Alec.
     
  4. Conor

    Conor Never been banned from sales Staff Member

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    I have used a dremmel in the past to good effect.:) Might prove quicker thant the wet and dry paper ;)
     
  5. RobF

    RobF Administrator Staff Member

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    2nd'd.... :)
     
  6. Knockedover

    Knockedover Active Member

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    I've done a few now with a small sanding drum on a dremel, take it steady and its a doddle :)
     
  7. Delphinus

    Delphinus New Member

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    How about leave the frame alone and cut a few thousands in the barrel at the point it pass the 3 point contact?

    Has anyone tried this a barrel it s cheaper then a rifle and this way we can go back.

    The only drawback that I can think off is that it will affect the harmonics but the contact with the frame also do it.
     
  8. poth

    poth Whafta old Gits world champion

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    Can't beat a good reaming out butty
     
  9. CameronWilson

    CameronWilson Member

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    My hole is freshly reamed.

    That little sanding drum that came with my Dremel, is indeed a perfect fit for the job!

    I'll let you know how I get on.

    Thanks for all the advice...

    Cam.
     
  10. Thepointman

    Thepointman Member

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    I just completed converting a 10m LG100 to a 12 fpe Field Target rifle. I used a dremel and sanding drum to open up the frame a bit to float the barrel. It worked perfectly. No big deal at all to do either.

    Best of luck with yours!

    Harold

     
  11. airborn68

    airborn68 Member

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    Hi all

    just thought I would add to this that the barrel on my heavily modified hydrographics 110 has had the barrel turned down.

    Jon
     
  12. peter b

    peter b Member

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    Steyr

     
  13. digitaldwarf

    digitaldwarf New Member

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    just to upset the apple cart i have my carbine polygon barrel clamped at the front :eek: and i cant notice any loss of accuracy with it :D
     
  14. Conor

    Conor Never been banned from sales Staff Member

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    It isn't accuracy that is the issue here, or indeed the problem.
    The issue is the fluctuations in POI from day to day, week to week and season to season. Hot to cold temperature may give high to low POI shifts which can be a pain.

    Free floating a barrel won't and can't improve its accuracy.
     
  15. PaulD

    PaulD I like Feinwerkbau's

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    As you know Conor both me and Schoey have the (now not so new) :eek:o Long version 110. I decided to free float my barrel not because I noticed any need to do it but because I thought I would follow the accepted norm! Mr Schofield didn't float his barrel and hasn't noticed any poi shift at all :confused: So it turns out I unnecessarily floated mine and opened a whole other can of worms in the process most of which I have been complaining about on here :rolleyes: There again I might have just been unlucky in buying the biggest pile of poo on planet earth :rolleyes:
     
  16. Conor

    Conor Never been banned from sales Staff Member

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    It is necessary to float the barrel on the Steyr, loosening off the grub screw in the A frame helps however if the barrel is touching the A frame then POI in different temps is inevitable.

    If your shooting is a pile of poo then buying a pile of poo won't help:p
     
  17. villiers

    villiers Self appointed antipimp

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    Simple

    Its a bimetallic spring and is converting a temperature change into mechanical displacement, you have a steel barrel a aluminium frame both have a different rate of expansion with change in temp if you have a point of contact you have a rocking point, it will shift . Free floating will remove rocking point but it would not make it more accurate just stay at a more constant point of aim . :eek:
    Curvature of a Bimetallic Beam:
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2013
  18. Conor

    Conor Never been banned from sales Staff Member

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    Thank you Don.
     
  19. PaulD

    PaulD I like Feinwerkbau's

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    It still doesn't alter the fact that Daves rifle has never moved with temperature ;) and ive always said im a crap shot :eek:o
    and yes Don, I do know how a bi metallic spring works :p
     
  20. villiers

    villiers Self appointed antipimp

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    No its not you thats crap your aiming at the same spot and the gun is shifting , its the Dave bloke who is crap and cant see the shift in his gun:p
     

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