Moving cocking lever and stabiliser adjustment

Discussion in 'Steyr' started by what barn door, Dec 12, 2015.

  1. what barn door

    what barn door Now them tin chickens are going to get it....

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    Hi,

    In an atempt to see why the cocking lever on my LG110 was barely locking and often coming open on firing, I checked out the videos on Styers site (why don't they all do that?) anyway, the bit about the satbaliser being level with the back end doesn't seem to apply to mine. There appears to be a fair difference, mine is nowhere near the backend, is it possibly some mod/change that has not been shown on the videos?

    Will nudging the barrel forward a little be likely to fix the cocking lever issue? Other than that the only other observation on using this gun is the loud mechanical ping when firing it?

    Many thanks in anticipation of some good input,

    Ian
     
  2. nemesis

    nemesis 55yrd standing expert, or was it 8 or 9?

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    The stabiliser should be flush with the end of the chassis. Setting it up to protrude past it will make the gun vibrate as it slams into the end stop.
    Dont disturb the barrel, make small adjustments by loosening the trigger housing from the chassis, the 2 cap screws at the rear of the housing.
     
  3. what barn door

    what barn door Now them tin chickens are going to get it....

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    Hi Nemesis,

    Thanks for the quick response. I have started to dismantle the gun and found the first problem, for some reason there is no washer at all under the transfer port, it doesn't look like it has been messed about with too much in any way so not sure if there ever was one on mine or ever intended to be one. Gun serial number is 04268 and cylinder says it was made in June 2013.

    The stabiliser on mine stops 11mm short of the end of the stock, that seems a lot to try and adjust out with the little screw shown on the video? What damage if any, will it make if I leave it set up as it is? Tried moving the barrel forward slightly and it made no difference at all to the locking of the cocking lever. The safty catch seems to be fine as does the spring with it so not sure why it is doing this.

    Once again many thanks for your help,

    Ian
     
  4. robsue20

    robsue20 Member

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    Are you 'firing' the stabiliser off. this will make it move back further when you cock it.
     
  5. burjaka

    burjaka Member

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    Is the stabilizator clean??
    Look at the video, take it out and clean...
    Then check again.
    If needed adjust ...

    Keep us updated.
     
  6. BDL

    BDL Dangerous

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    My stabaliser was way off when I had it apart for the 1st time, it's easily adjusted takes a few tweets to get it spot on. You can get a replacement pressure ring from harry doesn't use the **** springs

    The barrel adjustment isnt to difficult either to get the correct pressure, should be a nice click nothing hard.

    Bri
     
  7. what barn door

    what barn door Now them tin chickens are going to get it....

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    Hi,

    Yes I am firing the stabiliser off (if you mean depressing the little rocking lever on top of the bolt ?) It looks very clean and very lightly oiled.

    I will order (or try to order) a seal for under the transfer port from HP, if he is not happy then one of the EU options.

    Many thanks every one, will update shortly once an adjustment is made.

    Thanks again to all of you for your help.

    Ian
     
  8. Ratinator

    Ratinator Well-Known Member

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    Stabaliser

    I think robsue is asking are you loading a pellet? This will give you greater back pressure against the stabaliser. Just a small amount of adjustment will give an increased length so no need for new spring in the stabaliser and as Bdl pointed out the new out Spring ring is a good upgrade for the 3 tiny ones. My stabaliser sticks out about 10mm when fired and my Steyr is as dead as dead gets.
     
  9. what barn door

    what barn door Now them tin chickens are going to get it....

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    Hi,

    No, no pellet or cylinder attached, however moving the screw slightly has indeed produced the result as shown in the Styer videos.So now the stabiliser is working properly.

    However even with no pellet or cyinder attached the cocking lever is still drifting back once the trigger was fired.

    Loosening the two cap screws that secure the action to the stock has helped so it looks as though some sort of home made shim will be required.

    Has anyone else had this problem? It is clearly worse when a pellet is loaded and fired, and of course it effects the POI.

    Thanks again for all the help, I am only just begining to understand what Chris C was telling me all them months ago,(Steyrs are good kit and not too bad to work on) seems he was right, shame I did'nt catch on then but once the cocking lever thing is fixed I will be very happy with it.

    Thanks,

    Ian
     
  10. Ratinator

    Ratinator Well-Known Member

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    New bits

    Sounds to me like you may need a new cocking lever or roller bearing, possibly both.
    You should have a nice positive click when you close the cocking lever.
     
  11. nemesis

    nemesis 55yrd standing expert, or was it 8 or 9?

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    Check the cocking leaver roller bearings for excessive sideways play, tighten the counter sunk cap screw if its loose and use some powerful thread lock.
    Also check the slot on the cocking arm what the roller bearing tracks in.
    At the end of the slot there's a cut out what the bearing latches into. What happens is this hook shaped cut out looses it's profile which allows the roller bearing to jump back out of it.
    You need to make the profile slightly deeper and come back on itself slightly. Its easy to do with a dremel.
     
  12. robsue20

    robsue20 Member

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    You have checked that the breech seal is in place?
     
  13. tugg

    tugg itchy trigger finger

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    that is more than likely your problem , some people set these up to tight in the first place which puts far too much pressure than necessary on the lever and the cocking rollers which leads to premature wear, as mentioned the profile can be sharpened up to be better than new ,will more than likely just need a tickle ,don't go mad.
     
  14. RobF

    RobF Administrator Staff Member

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    Not all of them have them. But from my experience, people tend to shove the action forward more than they need to get a seal around the barrel, when it's actually the transfer port leak being pushed up and around where the barrel seals. It's subtle but with a bit of testing you can tell the difference and once the TP seals you don't need anything like the amount of compression on the bolt to close it.

    Roller bearings can also bind. They need to be free rolling as well.

    The steyr doesn't have the best design for outdoor use.
     
  15. what barn door

    what barn door Now them tin chickens are going to get it....

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    Wow thank you, so much good advice. I ended up just tweaking the cocking lever arm to increase the dwell that holds it closed (2 mins with a dremel and then a very light stoning to remove burrs) and now it seems to work perfectly.

    I have put about twenty+ pellets through it and it hasn't moved once so the fix does seem to have cured the problem. Next will be to see if there is any leak from the bolt to the breech seal or the seal on the top of the transfer port to the bolt.

    I can see this rifle is built to be easy to work on and it out performs my FTP (which has now moved on) just hoping it won't need much doing to it and that parts are easily come by when I do.

    Once again my sincere thanks to all those willing to share their knowledge.

    Ian
     
  16. nemesis

    nemesis 55yrd standing expert, or was it 8 or 9?

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    If you need to shim it to prevent it leaking, which i think you'll find it does leak. You need to use a dense material that doesn't crush. I use polycarbonate sheet which is 0.6mm thick. You can use laminating pouches put through the laminator to stiffen them.
    You might find it needs about 2 or 3. Center hole is 8mm then cut them freehand to about 2mm wide. If you make them too large it prevents the transfer port screwing down properly. Don't over tighten the transfer port.
     
  17. what barn door

    what barn door Now them tin chickens are going to get it....

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    Thank you nemesis,

    I will give that a try.

    Up until now I haven't really used my LG110 much, but had a challenge to see how well it would shoot under pretty testing conditions, it did very well, in fact had it not been for the odd low shot, caused mainly by the breech bolt blowing back, in turn caused by the cocking lever issue, it would have been amazing, maybe I should use it more and ditch the remaining air arms stuff I own !

    Thanks,

    Ian
     
  18. chrisc

    chrisc Lucky git

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    Hi Ian, i think i have one of the thin shims that sits under the transfer port but these are far from standard and i've only ever found a couple whilst servicing hundreds of rifles, none of mine have ever needed them. You mentioned the ping on firing?....that's the hammer resonating. Yours will be the 'internal' power adjuster that has a shorter, fatter hammer spring and a hammer that has a 'rat tail' at the end....it's the 'rat tail' that makes the ringing noise. To get rid of the ping you can sleeve the tail (but that can cause problems as the hammer spring shaves bits off the sleeve over time) or swap to the external power adjuster but it's not a cheap swap as you need a new hammer, spring and 'top hat' adjuster.

    When setting the stabiliser i personally set it up to sit flush with the chassis or so that it protrudes approx 5mm from the rear. If you follow the vids it's easy enough to set the stabiliser up and you don't need to shoot a pellet. Basically, remove the platic plug (and Pin) from the rear of the chassis, cock the rifle fully to the rear and put your thumb in the hole so that it sets the stabiliser, push the lever forward and lock in place, press the stab on top to release the stab spring, open the bolt and pull fully to the rear and see how far the stab protrudes from the rear.:)

    If you get bored over xmas and fancy popping over to Emley then drop me a message and we'll have a shoot around the HFT or FT course.:)
     
  19. what barn door

    what barn door Now them tin chickens are going to get it....

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    Chris your a star,

    not only do you know your steyr's inside out but your insight into the ftp that I bought was absolutely right, I just didn't get on with it. The Steyr is Steying. I think I have sorted it out now and can't detect any leak from anywhere now but I will try to get up to Emley at some point, the experience would be very useful.

    Many thanks Chris,

    Ian
     
  20. chrisc

    chrisc Lucky git

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    No worries Mate, always welcome.:)
     

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