Discussion in 'Steyr' started by Mr Blonde, Jun 22, 2018.
Im just curious, is it weak and does it flex much. Seem to remeber reading they flex lots?
My domi and 9015 alutec stocks dont seem to flex dont no about steyr
Im only interested in the Steyr so pretty unhelpful info but thanks...
To be fair Mr Blonde you didn’t say Steyr !!
Its in the Steyr section would have thought it obvious... But if i wasnt clear im sorry... Steyr LG110 and Steyr Challenge ambidextrous chassis.
Didn’t have a problem with my domi or 9015
Ive had an Ambi model Steyr FT 110 since 2011 and flex has never been a problem.
I use a genuine Steyr picatinny rail, this may possibly help.
Yep they flex more. If you shim them so they don’t distort when you tighten up the block it’s not a problem.
Found this out today on my challenge , tighten'd up the transfer port abit to tight and it pulled the backend down enough to alter my poi ! is there a specific torque setting for the transfer port and rear bolts ?
I don't know of one, doesn't mean there isn't one.
But if you shim the rear so the chassis isn't bent as the bolts and port are tightened then it won't.
Rob do you know what it's pivoting on? is it the high section infront of the hammer slot on the trigger block? cant see nowt in the chassis
Off hand I can't remember. It's been a while since I've taken her apart. A thin brass shim cut to a T shape to fit between the bolts on the rear stopped it though.
It doesn't pivot on anything as if there's a high spot unless you've got the pivot pin set too high for the cocking lever, this should be level across the housing,
what happens is this.
The front of the housing when inside of the chassis doesn't remain parallel to the inside of the chassis, its not bedded to the chassis properly, there's a small gap at the front. When you then tighten the transfer port it pulls the front of the housing upwards to the chassis. Look at the gap between the muzzle break and cylinder when you tighten the transfer port and see what happens.
It's crucial to keep the roller bearing guide on the housing square to the chassis and exhaust tube otherwise the roller bearing may not run true and be stiff. If you shim the block away from the chassis at the back, you'll also lower the housing away further from the roller bearing. What can happen then is the roller bearing doesn't contact the shoulder on the hammer as much and as a result, causes damage to the hammer by creating a burr. You'll be surprised just how little the bearing contacts this shoulder on the hammer.
The gap you need to close is the one at the front. Put shim material on the top of the back plate what the reg attaches to, this way you won't lower the housing and lessen the contact area where the roller bearing pushes the hammer back.
To test it lay the housing inside the chassis without the two cap screws and the exhaust tube and press down in the housing at the front, you'll feel it tip downward until the top of the reg backplate hits the underside of the chassis. You can also test the gap by tightening the transfer port up without the two cap screws fitted and check the gap at the back between the housing and chassis where the cap screws fit, sometimes you can actually see a sloped gap. It's impossible to shim the gap completely as if you did the housing won't slide inside the chassis, the other alternative is don't over tighten the transfer port.
So, I'd normally shim the area I've coloured red.
Are you saying it would be better to shim the area couloured green?
No, the curved backplate that the reg bolts to. I used to shim the back and it damaged the hammer. If you can feel it rocking it's usually due to the chassis been damaged by years of over tightening the transfer port. The alloy becomes distorted and gets pulled downwards underneath where the transfer port sits.
Until it unscrews itself during a comp. I'll never just nip it up again like they say in the video.
PTFE tape . Works a treat.
I have seen a cracked frame from the transfer port being done up to tight. Its not meant to be to tight.