Discussion in 'Hunter (HFT) & Field Target (FT)' started by Sparky, Oct 7, 2010.
What zero do you use for HFT, don't just vote give your reasons why and also the pro's & con's.
30y because it's what Pete Dutton does! It also means I can stay in the kill for reducers and have a fair bit of lee way for cocking up ranges on long uns.
Since i went to 177 (7 years ago) i've used a 35 yard zero, i find that takes too much thinking out of it, i.e. 15mm from 18 yards to 25 yards .5 holdunder, 25 mm from 16 yards to 35 yards just aim inside bottom of the kill and from 38 yards to 45 yards crosshairs just above the kill, there is plenty more but thats the general idea
I've been playing with a 30 yard zero over the last few months and although i can see why people use it, its hard to get my head around after using 35 yards for so many years.
I use 40 on my Sr6 because it just works - all the important aim points land on a line so there is none of this guessing the middle between 2 points which i don't feel comfortable with on a 15mm target
I use 30 yds because with the power set to 11.5FPE it gives me a flattish trajectory from 20 to 35 yds and only holdover for shorter/longer distances.
But then again I've won nowt
35 yards just works perfect in conjunction with scope height, pellet weight and my ret. I tried 30 yards but kept bloody shooting the reducers on my 35 yard aim points (DOH!).
I think it is more important that you just have it set correct then know it inside out, dont imagine there is a correct answer to it, it will be more about familiarity when you are playing the percentages.
I fiddled around with Chairgun pro and KZ size one day and it suggested that 33.2 was the optimum for me but still couldnt get my head around it when it actually came to shooting a comp.
Ask yourself this Pete, what were you shooting on when you won all those competitions, (yes I know there were weak fields in them all, the Scottish werent there lol)!!!!
There is your answer, stick with what you know.
I used to zero at 30 but having had a chat with Sparky I moved to 35, less to think about in terms of aim points.
tried 30yds to start with but found it too hard to remember aim points, had a few hours on zero range with chris cundey, zeroed at 35yds and my scores have improved vastley so it would have to be a deffinate 35yd zero for me evry time.:shot:
35 yards have just used that zero for ages.. understand it... don't forget my aim points.
As your well aware pete...I'm just reiterating back what you've said to me before... just stick to what you know.
30 yds for me with the hawke tac 30, the half mill dot gives me an extra aim point for anything 40 yds and over and for reducers at 13 yds and more I stay inside the kill all be it from top to bottom as the range increases.
35 Yard zero for me,the aim point are so set in my head 15mm kills cross hair just in the top for 13 to 17/18 yards and just under bottom of kill for 19/25 yards anything 40 to 45 i put my first mil dot just above bottom of kill and that covers a few ranges for me.
35yds for me.
15mm kills are either inside top or bottom depending on what it brackets at, and the rest I play the odds on and can fits several ranges in to lessen the chances of misranging. You don't have to hit them in the middle to knock'em over
25m for me, which is approx 27yds, because my indoor club has a 25 m range.
used to be 35yds, but switched over quite easily last December,all 4 0.177 rifles.
8yds -2 dots
10yds -1 dot
13yds -0.5 dots
40yds -0.75 dots
45yds -1.2 dots
I use 30yds because thats what I found works for me with the current rifle and scope set up.
Myself and Kieran zero at 25yards,aim bang on for the 15mm reducers except the ones at 13,14 yards which is crosshair top of kill,allthough if you know your aim points it doesn't matter where you zero at.
I use 25 yards as that's the furthest the indoor range at Buxted goes but then again I like 25 yards anyway. The zeroing range advantage/argument must surely be influenced by your scope/mount/pellet/power/rifle set up. After all, two people could zero at the same distance but have different aim points due to set up differences. How big a difference they can make I don't know.
Currently 30 yards, im normally set at 35y but recently started missing LOADS of my 15mm (used to be very solid on em) so ive just swap over to 30y, i havnt realy had a chance to give it proper field test.
Im going to anston saturday so that will be some more practice but will get to use it in anger for the 1st time at MIDLANDS HFT WINTER LEAGUE round 1 on sunday......... fingers crossed :shot:
30yds for me, works well with my scope height & MV, no hold under, aim points well defined (half-mil hashes help).
35 yards for me now, always used to zero at 30 but found 35 yards gives a lot more tolerance on the long ones. It has taken a long time to learn and there have been quite a few cock ups on the way. Tried 40 yards last night down the club , it was a nightmare on 15mm kills, i was nearly 1 mildot above the cross hair at 25 yards.
My zero works out at around 37 yards (I think).
I like the MTC SCB reticules and set my rifle up with the 3/4 mildot mark for 45 yards so I'd have a precise aiming point for the long ones. I then just worked out the aiming points for all the other ranges from that.
It works for me but as others like to zero at different ranges I'm not sure how much it matters as long as you learn and practice your own aiming points.
How often do you get a target placed right on your zero'd range anyway?
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