Discussion in 'Hunter (HFT) & Field Target (FT)' started by hotversion, Feb 23, 2014.
Would it help having a hft scope set up to optical zero? Or as near as possible?
help with what?
Most people have there zero at either 30 or 35 yards for HFT, and it depends on the height of your mounted scope to what yardage aim points you'll have above your zero cross hairs and below. With mine, my zero is set at 35 yards and I can get from 15 yards to 35 yards above my cross hairs and from 35 yards to 45 yards below my cross hairs. The plus point is all my aim points are within a mil dot above and below my cross hairs. So it gives me the advantage sometimes that I can get all my mil dots inside the kill. My scope is a 44mm objective lens mounted on medium mounts and is very close to the rifle action, which helps a lot too.. I hope this helps.
No u miss understand me,I shoot a 25 yard zero,but that's another subject,I mean like in ft when you try n set your optical zero t 55 yard so you have the best quality,I mean setting my 25 yard to optical zero.
Do you mean optical centering?
Most people don't bother.
Technically it will help as it will mean that you are looking at your cross hairs through the very best part of the glass of the lenses. So optically the picture should be at it's best.
Also by having the cross hairs centred through the very centre of the scope can mean that you should get your poi's along a true vertical line all through the ranges.
So if you have your PA ( focus ) set to 25 yards then optically centre it at 25 yards. You then shouldn't get any 'crossover' at extreme ranges but the scope needs to be mounted perfectly in line with the barrel. Most mounts take the scope off true. So ideally you have your scope optically centred and then the mounts are adjusted so that the scope lines up perfectly with the barrel.
Is this what you mean?
This may be more complex than it first appears.
Could not having a scope opticaly centered affect cross over at close range ? !
that's an issue of not having the scope's reticle perpendicular to the action/barrel. Parralax error is also a cause.
yes that's what Im talking about.
I think it depends on where your line of sight falls as to whether you shim to get the optically centred scope "looking at" your zero without any clicking.
I would think its more of a problem with the high mounted FT scopes than the low mounted HFT scope, I would say the only way to tell if you need to shim is to optically centre the scope mount it and see how close impact is at your chosen zero (25 yards say) if it requires a lot of elevation adjustment it may be worthwhile to shim to keep your eye looking through the glass in the optimum area.
Have to say I have some new "as low as they go" mounts off Rick on here and they are the dogs, I have <1mm clearance on the action and with the scope optically centred I only needed around a dozen clicks to zero - windage was even less - quality.
Hi mate,thanks for the post,I've just moved to a connect 32mm,that would be hard to optically centre as the objective is weird,I did think about low mounts but your going to need more hold over at further ranges,suppose you can't have everything in hft it's always a compromise o
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