Here We Go

Discussion in 'General Airgun Chat' started by Strokebloke, Aug 28, 2013.

  1. Strokebloke

    Strokebloke Mk3 Fanatic

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2013
    Messages:
    735
    Location:
    Northampton UK
    Club:
    SYWELL NTSC : FT : Greyhound : Kibworth
    The Mk 3 arrived soon after lunchtime. It definitely has one new battery, though the 2nd one looks decidedly manky. New soldering to both where they are connected to the PCB, so I can only assume 2 new batteries. I may get my electronics engineering friend to tell me whether he is able to assess the condition of both.
    In the Daystate parcel was a tick-box-card, stating what had been done. Seemed very little for a significant amount of money paid for the privilege. We'll see. If it works well without hiccough, I'll be satisfied.

    Anyway - to business.
    The T50 scope is now installed on the Mk3. I had marked the position of the ocular end of the old scope on the cheekpiece with a strip of black masking tape. So I had some idea of where the T50 eyepiece ought to be.
    I didn't rush. I suppose it took me a couple of hours to completely rebuild and set up, from getting everything out of their respective boxes.

    The scope is amazing.
    It ranges easily and very effectively from 10yds to 55yds. It may range down to 8yds, but I haven't tried that yet. There is no loss in focus upon an object between 50 mag and 10 mag, or at any mag in between either.
    I appreciate that you old hands will take it for granted, but I'm amazed at the detail and accuracy at 50 mag when it snaps into focus. And it does snap in. One moment it's slightly blurred; then with hardly any movement, it is tack sharp: and then with hardly any further movement, it is out of focus again. I would suspect that it is perfectly possible to shoot everything at 20 mag.
    The only downside I have encountered so far (& I was forewarned that this was the case) is that the crenelated mag ring is tapered, so it is unsuitable to accept a coaster to facilitate rotation. I've been led to believe that S/S ones are available, which will fit. So I'll have to source one of those shortly.

    I haven't zeroed or marked the side-wheel yet. And I haven't fired the Mk3 yet either. I won't do so until I have zeroed the scope, and have some idea of where the pellet may go to. :eek: :rolleyes: :)
    I've fitted the large top turret but haven't marked clicks on it either.

    What is distressingly clear is that with the scope at 50 mag I am going to have to start again in terms of controlling my breathing/stability/composure. Sitting on Barry's cushion and focusing on an object 15yds away, demonstrated how much movement is seen at 50 mag. I've had about 5 weeks without shooting the Mk3, and what little I had gained has oozed away I think. :eek:o :)
    I think I may have to commence from a mind-set of 'starting all over again'.

    I'll carry on with this when I have zeroed etc
    It's almost like having a new camera to play with. Not quite. But still a lot of fun. :D
     
  2. fudge-1200

    fudge-1200 New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2012
    Messages:
    362
    Location:
    South Wales
    Club:
    Castleton, FTC
    You can get a coaster to fit by putting Self Amalgamating tape on it, just build it up a couple of turns this allows the coaster to bite into it, I had it on mine and it worked really well.
    Hope this helps.
    Gary.
     
  3. Strokebloke

    Strokebloke Mk3 Fanatic

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2013
    Messages:
    735
    Location:
    Northampton UK
    Club:
    SYWELL NTSC : FT : Greyhound : Kibworth
    Gary, that sounds great.
    I've just looked on the Rowan Eng site and the ali equivalent of a coaster is £37 + P&P.
    What do you mean by Self Amalgamating tape? Double sided tape?

    Jack
     
  4. fudge-1200

    fudge-1200 New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2012
    Messages:
    362
    Location:
    South Wales
    Club:
    Castleton, FTC
    Hi Jack.
    Yes it is very similar, Plumbers and Electricians use it, it keeps water out, and protects joints, Years ago it used to be Horrible! stuff but the stuff you get now is so easy to use. I think my mate who gave me some got it at Maplins, give them a try, you will only need a few inches, I think I wrapped it around twice and that allowed the Coaster to bite into it and it has never ever moved.
    Gary.
     
  5. fudge-1200

    fudge-1200 New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2012
    Messages:
    362
    Location:
    South Wales
    Club:
    Castleton, FTC
    When you fit the Coaster tighten it up, mark the ends, then remove the plastic nut and cut just below the marks, when you tighten it back up you then don't have the end pieces sticking out, it looks much tidier doing it that way. Or is it just me being ANAL.:eek: It is much better as it is surprising how sharp they can be.
     
  6. Strokebloke

    Strokebloke Mk3 Fanatic

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2013
    Messages:
    735
    Location:
    Northampton UK
    Club:
    SYWELL NTSC : FT : Greyhound : Kibworth
    Thanks Gary. Much appreciated. You've saved me almost £40.
    I'll buy the beer next time we meet. :)

    I've moved the rear mount too, so that I can fit a pointer into the gap :)
    I'll make a windicator. Rowans are far too expensive. (I'm a tight-fisted Northumbrian :rolleyes:)
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2013
  7. DeanB

    DeanB Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2009
    Messages:
    560
    Location:
    Worcs
    Club:
    Harriers FTC
    If you are that tight fisted, or like an uncluttered scope, move the rear mount inline with the scope wheel and insert a needle between the top and bottom mounts. You've probably seen this on the set-ups of various people.
    Dean
     
  8. fudge-1200

    fudge-1200 New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2012
    Messages:
    362
    Location:
    South Wales
    Club:
    Castleton, FTC
    No Problem Jack, Glad to help. I used a BRIGHTLY coloured paper clip as a pointer, or if you need something thicker, paint an Allen Key.
    Gary.
     
  9. Strokebloke

    Strokebloke Mk3 Fanatic

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2013
    Messages:
    735
    Location:
    Northampton UK
    Club:
    SYWELL NTSC : FT : Greyhound : Kibworth
    I've found a very wide flat aluminium washer in my odds & sods tin in the workshop. I'll shape it and drill to suit the two allen bolts which go through the cap - polish it, and it'll look as good as a pro made job :D
    Thanks both.
     
  10. Neil-T

    Neil-T Boingers forever.

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2011
    Messages:
    1,511
    Location:
    Cheadle, Staffordshire Moorlands
    Club:
    Far Coley
    T50

    Hi Jack. I put my T50 on the GML S200 yesterday, and zeroed it at 30yds.

    Taking the scope out of the box I was impressed by the extras that come with it. I will just say at this point that I am used to shooting with scopes 3 times the price of the T50, mainly Leupold Competion series, I do have a Big Nikko and BSA big 60 as well.

    I mounted the scope on the 200 using BKL silver single strap mounts with 3 pieces of film negative under the rear mount. I fitted the large top turret and covered it with tape so can place my corresponding ranges on it. I also fitted a sidewheel pointer and turret pointer. After marking the wheel and turret with 30yd numbers I moved in to 15tds. I will say at this point that first impressions are, that its not the best made scope in the world, and the quality and finish is not the best, but the optical quality for a scope of this price is more than adequate. I opted to parallax on 45 mag as the clarity was a lot better than 50. Before I decided to do this I checked the parallax at various magnifications down to 25 and the 30yd mark came in at all mags from 50 to 25.

    At 15 yds I could pick out paper fibres on my zero board, so very happy with the clarity and contrast. I proceeded to put all distances from 10-35yds. First impressions are good. I will add the longer ranges on Saturday or Sunday and put it through its paces on a 30 shot FT course.

    I will report back after that. Neil.
     
  11. Strokebloke

    Strokebloke Mk3 Fanatic

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2013
    Messages:
    735
    Location:
    Northampton UK
    Club:
    SYWELL NTSC : FT : Greyhound : Kibworth
    Neil,
    I've used Sportsmatch ATP61 adjustable mounts. Suggested by Rob & several others. :)

    Since the first occasion when I positioned a scope on a pair of mounts, I've had reservations about fitting film neg (or any other packing material) between the scope tube and the rear mount. This way I have no possibility of distorting the tube. I know that packing with film neg is a common practice, it just appears to me to be a potential for distortion of a relatively flimsy aluminium tube.

    I am unsure what to zero my scope at.
    Originally I zeroed at 25yds, primarily because I have access to the 25yd indoor range at Sywell. So if I need to check my zero, in ideal conditions, I can easily do so.

    Any thoughts about zeroing at 30 -35 -40yds would be appreciated.
    I do understand that the further out you zero, the more clicks are required to get onto the closer targets.
    And initially, I will be shooting Winter League, where not every target will be 50-55yds al a GP's

    Jack
     
  12. RobF

    RobF Administrator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2010
    Messages:
    11,659
    Location:
    Poole, Dorset
    Club:
    Parkstone Gun Club, South Dorset FTC, Southampton Buccaneers
    Sounds all good Jack. If you're worried about wobbles range on full mag then drop to a lower one for the shot. Stops you trying to defeat wobbles you can't control. Over time as your position gets better and you use less muscle it will reduce. No hard and fast rule about what mag to shoot on, just use what you like. Most scopes however rangefinder better on full mag in most conditions. There's a small bit of science about optical resolution but for the moment i won't complicate matters with that, just get her marked up and enjoy. :)
     
  13. Neil-T

    Neil-T Boingers forever.

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2011
    Messages:
    1,511
    Location:
    Cheadle, Staffordshire Moorlands
    Club:
    Far Coley
    With the BKLs mounted straight onto the rifle, the scope was zeroed at 30 yds which is still on zero from 19-32tds.
     
  14. aitchuk

    aitchuk Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2008
    Messages:
    208
    Location:
    Sheffield
    Club:
    redfearns
    Jack if you use a 30yd zero all your clicks will be positive that is dialing up
    30 and 20 yds will be on your zero with 25 about half a pellet high
    using 30yds means you are less prone to miss diali as on 35 you would have to dial down
    then it is easy to forget if you get distracted

    Aitch
    good luck in the winter league
     
  15. BDL

    BDL Dangerous

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Messages:
    976
    Location:
    Ebbw Vale
    Club:
    Blaenau Gwent
    Rowan

    I have the T50 and the Rowan coaster and pointer are great, I trimmed the pointer and added a dab of red to the tip this keeps it looking smart :).

    It's a crisp scope and you will find it easy to shoot on 30, you'll be watching the little pellets hit most of the time. It's also easy to forget to turn it down as its clear at 50 lol

    Dependent on the mount hight and zero 55yds will be 5.4 so well under the full turn and if you turn the mag down to 10 for 8,9,10,11 and 12 you can use the mil dots this saves excessive dialling which stops you going a turn out (never done that's one have I ;-) lol).
     
  16. ellis d

    ellis d Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2012
    Messages:
    929
    Location:
    Leicester
    Club:
    Castle ftc
    I don't want to put you off jack, But the mfta winter league course's will be as tough as a gp course, Just 40 shots though and more wind...:)
     
  17. Strokebloke

    Strokebloke Mk3 Fanatic

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2013
    Messages:
    735
    Location:
    Northampton UK
    Club:
    SYWELL NTSC : FT : Greyhound : Kibworth
    Thanks Rob. You can blind me with science sometime after the Worlds. :D

    Sounds like 30yds is the way to go. I'll stick with that. Thanks.
    Q : Does the POI change if you shoot on different magnifications ? If I zero on say 20 mag, then shoot a close target on 10 mag will I have to make allowance for the reduction in magnification ?


    You won't put me off Ellis. I'm hooked now. And I enjoyed the GP's I've shot - just didn't hit many, that's all.
    I can only improve. Heaven knows - I can't get worse. :D:D:D
     
  18. BDL

    BDL Dangerous

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Messages:
    976
    Location:
    Ebbw Vale
    Club:
    Blaenau Gwent
    I zero on 30 mag and have not noticed any shift though the mags be it down or up
     
  19. Strokebloke

    Strokebloke Mk3 Fanatic

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2013
    Messages:
    735
    Location:
    Northampton UK
    Club:
    SYWELL NTSC : FT : Greyhound : Kibworth
    Great. thanks. :)
     
  20. neilL

    neilL New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2010
    Messages:
    567
    Location:
    Oxford
    Club:
    NOFTC CRPC
    It just happens to be that the max height of the trajectory is around 27-29 yds hence zero at 30 is just something that makes checking before a shoot fairly easy. I think most will say you shouldn't change your clicks shooting at a 'stranger' course but if your scope says it is 35yds and you normally add 2 clicks but find it is going high or low by a couple of clicks then when shooting the course you can add or subtract a couple of clicks so it all makes sense for that session. (There are all sorts of reasons why pellets can go high or low in cold or hot conditions). Then you go home, ponder, kick the tires and usually find it shoots fine on another day. However a lot of 'shift' comes from the position and hold which may not be as easy on a hilly course when you are used to a flat one for example.

    POI is ideally the same on every mag setting, you can pay a heck of a lot for a scope that guarantees it is but reality is that you need to do the experiment for your scope. You can clamp the setup on a bench/workmate and focus on some tiny object at the back of your garden and gently zoom back and forward, the crosshairs should stay on the same point. If there is a reproducible shift you can either send it back or live with it and always shoot at one mag or away from the problem e.g. I have a 20-50 Leup which moves POI at 20x, I always turn it up from 20x to a bit higher and it is fine. I could send it off to Leupold for a service but then they may very well remove the Premier Reticle booster and spoil my fun :)

    As they say - it takes quite a long time to get to know your scope but competing on different courses is a great way to find out you don't quite have it all sorted when you thought you did :)

    Neil
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice