cocking problem

Discussion in 'Steyr' started by robsue20, Jun 19, 2013.

  1. robsue20

    robsue20 Member

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    Right, rifle is lg110ft. When I cock it I get the lever back about an inch or so then I get resistance, once past the resistance it cocks easily. Anyone shed any light on what the problem might be and what parts I might need too fix it?
     
  2. Steve

    Steve Member

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    New cocking arm or fit roller bearing mod.open as if cocking then just use your finger to pull the actual bolt back if it goes easily it is one of the first things I said.Age of gun?
     
  3. robsue20

    robsue20 Member

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    2010 gun, import
     
  4. scutter

    scutter Aspiring to mediocrity

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    Take the leaver out and give it a good clean, also clean the firing body surface it slides along.

    Probably just a bit of grit.

    Gary
     
  5. paul4be

    paul4be Why do I bother????????

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    This first.
    I ended up with muck between the bolt and chassis and it was awful to try and cock.
    Check the condition of the rollers in the cocking mec as well.
     
  6. dia6olo

    dia6olo Member

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    I have the same problem with mine even after cleaning and it is the the new longer version with roller bearings.

    I have to point the rifle up when cocking and down when closing to avoid the sticky point you mention, the other thing I do instead of or as an alternative is to push the bolt past the sticky point as I'm cocking or closing.

    Not exactly ideal, new lever required me thinks.
     
  7. cozypom

    cozypom New Member

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    barrel may need adjusting or could be a loose transfer port..... remedy adjust barrel as in manual or tighten transfer port ( visable when you cock)
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2013
  8. Delphinus

    Delphinus New Member

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    Mine had the same problem and later stop to hold the lever closed the reason was the sharp edge that hold it closed was worn out and with a blur that scratch the aluminium body probably your has the same problem, verify if the lever is in the same plane in all is extension if it is check the bolt that hold the cocking is tight.

    If you fell a sharp point let me know it s easy to fix.
     
  9. chrisc

    chrisc Lucky git

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    Very common problem and is normally caused by rough handling when cocking (i've seen the people that think they are cocking a Lee Enfield) and incorrect setting of the Breech block on the 2 securing screws. If the block is incorrectly set then the lever and bearing will prematurely wear. Then a new cocking lever and roller bearing are required. Unfortunately i think it's a weak point with the Steyr. Roller bearings and Levers are easy enough to get. If anyone needs them then please drop me a PM.
     
  10. Brian.Samson

    Brian.Samson Allowed in Sales Staff Member

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    Both my LG100's did this for a couple of years (one was worse than the other) - setting the block screws correctly helped but didn't cure it completely.

    In the end I went for the cheap and cheerful solution. Open the breach with the cocking lever to the point where it gets stuck, then put your finger on the stabiliser and help it to move backwards until you've passed the stiff point and then do the final cocking with the lever again.

    Sounds like a complicated faff, but I got so used to doing it it was second nature to me.

    Or just buy a new arm and roller bearing
     
  11. fudge-1200

    fudge-1200 New Member

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    I had this problem a few weeks ago, if I tipped the barrel down it more or less fell in, stripped it down to clean it but I was amazed at how clean it was, so dirt was not the problem, But as Brian says, I adjusted the two bolts and it is now working fine.
    Gary.
     
  12. nemesis

    nemesis 55yrd standing expert, or was it 8 or 9?

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    Also check the channel in the action where the roller runs along.
    Prolonged use with the rollers seized can cause a burr or uneven ridge to form.This happened on mine,easily fixed with abit of wet and dry sandpaper then polish.
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2013
  13. CameronWilson

    CameronWilson Member

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    I had a fellow club member ask about this, and I was lucky enough to be able to ask The Dictator in person.

    I want you to imagine you are holding a spring between you thumb and forefinger. To compress the spring, you have to apply equal pressure with both your thumb and forefinger. And likewise, when you relax your grip you'll feel the spring pushing against both your thumb and forefinger with an equal amount of pressure on each side. It's important to realise that the spring doesn't just push out from one side.

    Now if we look at the design of the rifle.

    The rifles bolt is actually a hollow tube. Inside it, you will find a heavy weight with a spring sticking out the end – this is the famous Stabilzer.

    As the rifle is cocked, the hollow bolt and the Stabilizer move toward the back of the rifle together until the Stabilzer weight stops against the little black plastic cap on the rear face of the action. At this point as you continue to cock the rifle the hollow bolt starts to slip over the Stabilzer weight (a bit like pulling a sock over your foot). As you pull the cocking lever to the very end of its stroke, you will feel increased pressure as the spring that was sticking out the front of the Stabilizer starts to become compressed. When it us fully compressed a little latch locks the two pieces together.

    As the cocking handle is returned to it's forward position, both the hollow bolt, and Stabilzer weight (which are now locked together) move forward again until the breech makes a seal with the end of the barrel. At this point, the Stabilzer spring is compressed, but it isn't able to exert any pressure on either the hollow bolt or the weight, because the two pieces are locked together.

    Firing the rifle unlocks the latch locking the two pieces together, and the spring instantaneously exerts pressure to the rear (forcing the Stabilizer weight to move back) and also equally to the front, causing the whole rifle to move forwards (ever so slightly). The forwards movement of the rifle has been carefully calculated to match the recoil of the rifle, and the two forces cancel each other out. The result is a rifle which doesn't move at all during its firing cycle.

    Fine tuning all these forces so that they cancel each other out, is achieved via the adjuster on the spring sticking out the front of the Stabilizer weight. Unscrewing the screw adjuster effectively lengthens the screw, meaning that more pressure is exerted. Likewise screwing the adjuster in effectively shortens the screw meaning that less pressure will be exerted.

    If the rifle is used for some time, the Stabilizer spring will start to become lazy, and it's necessary to lengthen the effective length of the spring in order to rebalance the pressure that it exerts. This has the unfortunate side effect of throwing the Stabilzer weight further towards the rear of the rifle.

    It's this increased travel of the Stabilzer weight, that is causing you problems, because the bolt and the weight have to be perfectly aligned in order for the hollow bolt to slip over the weight effortlessly. When the weights travel is shorter (new spring) the bolt is effectively 3/4 slipped over the weight already. But with an older softer spring, half (or more) of the weight is poking out the hollow tube and it takes a wee while for them to align up properly.

    The acid test for a rifle that is exhibiting this problem, is to temporarily remove the Stabilzer weight, and the problem is solved.

    The ultimate fix for a rifle with this problem is to replace the Stabilzer spring, thereby returning the Stabilzer weights travel to its original shorter length.
     
  14. fudge-1200

    fudge-1200 New Member

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    Hi, Cam.
    What is the ideal position of the weight in the slit, would it be Proud of the slit, In line with it, or just below it. Or is there No ideal position.
    Gary.
     
  15. holly

    holly Well-Known Member

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    Seem

    Ir would seem that no more black transfer ports are to be made available ??? HOLLY:(
     
  16. fudge-1200

    fudge-1200 New Member

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    If you have a Black one fitted, am I right to think the only thing that can go wrong with it would be the O ring.
    Gary.
     
  17. Brian.Samson

    Brian.Samson Allowed in Sales Staff Member

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    They're very easy to round off if you attempt to undo one before you undo the two screws at the back. Not that I'd be stupid enough to do that :eek:
     
  18. fudge-1200

    fudge-1200 New Member

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    I have.:eek: But I won't anymore:D
    Gary.
     

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