BSA 0.177 barrel polishing

Discussion in 'Hunter (HFT) & Field Target (FT)' started by skires, Jan 13, 2016.

  1. skires

    skires Well-Known Member

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    Specifically the S10 0.177.

    All the usual ... shoots heavies best ... blah de blah.

    As a few others have mentioned it has a tight area at the breech and then goes slack all down the barrel and then tight again at the choke at the muzzle end.

    Bigtoe, and now my local RFD Keith M, has commented that the tight bit at the breech can't be doing me any favours. The pellets will be being sized down during transit through that bit and then enter the main length of the barrel undersize. Possible that compressed air will get past the pellet, cause instability blah de blah.

    Others commenting that the BSA barrels do well after a polish to remove imperfections during the hammer forging.

    So that tight spot is getting polished out at the breech. It is apparently caused on the S10's by BSA's method of using two bits pushed together to form the 'o' ring seal recess, and knurling the front/inner part ... hence giving a sort of choke at the breech end. Then the whole barrel is having a polish ... I'll go easy on the choke.

    So I spoke to Keith and he advised what compounds to use to do the polishing but I want to source a UK available barrel cleaning rod. Ideally I want a rod that has a bearing in the handle so the handle will turn with the rifling. Also a coated rod that won't damage the barrel. A centralising thingy would be nice too.

    The Parker Hale units look to tick those boxes but where sells them?

    Any other suggestions re rods please?

    It would be nice to have a rod that I could put a few 0.177 pads/felts on the front ( the cylindrical pads with holes through them ).

    Cheers.
     
  2. Adam

    Adam Active Member

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    Check out the Maha rod from Edinkillie at £12
    http://www.edinkillie.co.uk/ecatalo...ml?cPath=40&osCsid=qjvbi0e24h86b7c10a49bgdd53

    It is a plastic rod with brass end for the felts (compatible with the VFG felts).

    Advertised as two piece but you're unlikely to need the extension piece unless you have an air powered .177 brown bess!

    The handle does have a bearing, and the rod is much stronger than it feels but you need to pull it through in stages, moving the handle down a few inches at a time, or the rod flexes too much when you push back.
     
  3. POI

    POI New Member

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    I use a metal VFG bore cleaning rod with rotating handle and to stop the metal on metal contact I tightly wrap PTFE plumbers tape around it's shaft - long enough for the barrel length. It doesn't last long before it comes off or slides up and has to be taken off but it's good for at least one polish. An added advantage of this approach is that you can push pellets through the barrel with the VFG rod to feel the tight spots and then mark with a marker pen on the white PTFE tape. Puts the VFG cleaning pads with your polishing compound in the right place.
     
  4. skires

    skires Well-Known Member

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    Many thanks guys.

    I do want one that I can push pellets through to find tight spots.

    I have one that is steel rod and I thought about putting heat shrink tubing on that to stop metal on metal but it doesn't have a rotating handle.
     
  5. POI

    POI New Member

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    Ha - great minds think alike. I bought the heatshrink tubing - put it on but it was too thick to get the rod in the barrel. Then went down the PTFE route. If you do find some thinner tubing that works please let me know as this would be better.
     
  6. POI

    POI New Member

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    Interested to know as well what polishing compounds you have been recommended.
     
  7. RobF

    RobF Administrator Staff Member

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    Does it help to know i've had several blank BSA barrels in my hand that haven't been in a gun, that have tight spots at both ends?

    The maha is what i use (same as a VFG), but i'd be very surprised if you'll shift the tight parts... and if you do, i reckon you'll only shift the lands on those spots.
     
  8. skires

    skires Well-Known Member

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    It's interesting Rob that you've had them with tight spots at either end, especially if they were'nt S10's, as that squashes the theory of how the S10s got like that.

    I was concerned that the polishing may just reduce the lands and not really touch the grooves.

    Hmmm ... I may as well give it a go and see.

    I'll look at the MAHA.
     
  9. RobF

    RobF Administrator Staff Member

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    hmanphilly i think has a few, he would be able to confirm about the BSA's.
     
  10. skires

    skires Well-Known Member

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    I'll have a play with the heat shrink.

    HERE

    Finish with the finest.
     
  11. skires

    skires Well-Known Member

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    Cheers Rob
     
  12. Charlts

    Charlts Getting dusty

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    There's loads of .17 cal cleaning rods, don't worry about a coated rod the chances of the rod damaging the rifling are slim to none (I'm using uncoated rods on custom powder burners which all shoot shoot sub half MOA). How are you planning to apply the polish to lap the barrel?

    Do have a guide in place to protect the crown and do have a guide in place to ensure the rod is going in square - They do bend if they're not pushed perpendicular to the bore.
     
  13. skires

    skires Well-Known Member

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    Cheers Charlts. Hope you are well fella.

    Yeah I was wanting something to keep things central. The plan is to go in at the breech end and not come out of the crown end.

    The metal rod I have at the moment has a screw on soft brush that is tight to push in so I could use that. I wanted a handle with bearings really and then use about 3 felts on the end and put the compound on that.
     
  14. Charlts

    Charlts Getting dusty

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    Rather you than me it's not an easy job and it's very easy to mess everything up.
     
  15. john0neuk

    john0neuk Well-Known Member

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    Hi Skires,

    Good luck with your challenge!

    Do you have any appreciation re how much material you are trying to remove to clear to the required degree the "choke" at the breach end?

    My concern based on many years experience hand lapping engine valves and diesel injector discs to various degrees of thou tolerances - material removal is hard to achieve without a solid metal to metal interface and a compound between same.

    I am concerned that using a felt pad and compound will just be a journey in patience with little reward if you need to remove material as opposed to just polishing what is there.

    Just have a picture of a skeleton holding on to a cleaning rod and a barrel metaphorically "shrugging its shoulders" in my mind. :eek:o
     
  16. Conor

    Conor Never been banned from sales Staff Member

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    If it makes you feel any better, the inside of mine is shocking!

    And ask Rob about the BSA blank that the pellets were rattling about inside, one of the best barrels I have. Incredibly high and consistent BC at 50yrds.

    If it's tight, just get a competent gunsmith or engineer to add a 'lead in' for the pellet.

    Fanning about with rods and polish will be fruitless and could do more harm than good.
     
  17. Adam

    Adam Active Member

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    I was going to suggest just taking an inch or two off the breech end thus removing the tight spot but Conor's suggestion is genius. Like a very gentle forcing cone.
     
  18. skires

    skires Well-Known Member

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    OK

    Thanks for all the replies guys.

    Well ... a number of comments there from guys who I respect that are suggesting this polishing out of this tight spot is a no no. So the handbrake has gone on at the moment and we'll just hang on a bit and have a think.

    I'll have look at how long the tight bit is at the breech and have a look at how far in the bolt pushes the pellet etc.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2016
  19. Charlts

    Charlts Getting dusty

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    Speak to a proper gun smith who has .17 chamber reamers, be prepared though as for what it would cost someone good to do it you could probably buy half an S10. If it's accurate enough already, just get one with shooting the thing.
     
  20. chrisc

    chrisc Lucky git

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    I'm with Ryan on this.....although i'd be tempted to get another BSA barrel or a machined CZ if you're still inclined.

    I have the VFG kit and a rod kit with all the attachments you could borrow if you do decide to go down that route. My older Steyr kept going off the boil with grouping so i took the 10 year old barrel off and put on a new Steyr barrel and all was sweet again. I decided i would give the old barrel a really good beasting with the rods over a 4 week period to see if it made a difference. that barrel is now on a mates Steyr and he says it's spot on again, even after a few thousand pellets through it.
     

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