9015 Club incoming

Discussion in 'Anschutz' started by Hubertus, Jan 9, 2019.

  1. Hubertus

    Hubertus New Member

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    i will pick up my new 9015 Club 7,5J (cheapest version) tomorrow. it will not be converted because im limited to 7,5j
    it will be used for classic 10m shooting and 25m benchrest - but just for fun with friends, no competitions.

    i have a few questions:

    is the barrel band necessary?
    is there maybe grease in the hammertube which has to be removed ?
    how would you mount a scope ? one piece mounting or two ? im asking because the action is made of two parts.
    im shooting all year long outside.

    i will post some pictures tomorrow!
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2019
    Andy P likes this.
  2. Paul_T

    Paul_T Active Member

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    Would be nice to know how you get on with the 25m benchrest at 7.5j.

    Ive been thinking of getting a 7.5j black air for 10m and 20 yard indoor benchrest.
     
  3. Pavel

    Pavel New Member

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    Congrats.
    I've had such a long time and the shooting of 10m with a dioptrics is a real pleasure with her. Only the first stage of my trigger was a bit stiffer. I have not changed anything else.
    You'll like
     
    garym likes this.
  4. Hubertus

    Hubertus New Member

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    i shot this card with a hämmerli ar20 at 25m with 7,5j
    the 9015 should be at least that good ! :rolleyes:o_O:eek:
     

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  5. Paul_T

    Paul_T Active Member

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    Yes the AR20 is a very capable rifle. One of our club members has one. But the Anschutz should be on another level. :)
     
  6. Hubertus

    Hubertus New Member

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    she made it home!
    little yong heng took about 2 minutes to fill her up from zero to 200. i was really surprised that a checkvalve is build into the air cylinder or into the fill adaptor.
    pictures are not perfect but there was no daylight left.
    i can barely feel the spring beeing compressed - really smooth sidelever. the trigger is awesome with really nice ajustments.
    the stock seems to be coatet with transparant finish - i dont like that. i cant feel that its made of wood!

    first shots right out of the box:

    m/s
    169,4
    170,4
    170,6
    170,4
    171,3
    171,6
    172,2
    170,1
    172,3
    172,6
    170,8
    171,3
    170,4
    171,1
    174
    171,9
    173,5

    exact 4,52 8,44gr (unsorted)
     

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  7. Hubertus

    Hubertus New Member

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    i removed the shim between the barrel and the barrel band.
    i can barely fit one sheet of copy paper between the lower side. its not centered - is that ok ? its not touching the barrel band yet.
    and i also noticed a lot of movement from the action in the stock if the barrel band is not attached. the connection between stock and action is only made with one screw.

    i tested 10 different jsb batches WITH the barrel band and the groups were terrible @ 25m: 25mm+
    my hämmerli ar20 was not pellet fuzzy and i could shot half that group size all day long.

    shooting without the barrel band is not done yet. 10m performance is pellet on pellet!
     

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  8. tillygti6

    tillygti6 Tilly's gun stocks

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    Cut the top of the band off...

    Youl also find the barrel band inlet is cut too deep and needs a shim to get the action to mount flat .
    (Saying that, I told anschutz this a while ago, 2 years nearly. So they may have sorted it now). You dont want any undue pressure on the cylinder if possible.

    It's not secure enough with the single factory stock bolt only.

    I've modified a number of black air stocks now to run twin fixing bolts and fully float the cylinder. Works a treat
     
  9. Hubertus

    Hubertus New Member

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    Why should i cut the top of the band off ? or do you mean the shim that i removed ?

    fully float the cylinder = not touching wood but with the barrel band installed ? without the barrel shim ?

    could playdoh dough be helpful to identify some bad spots ? its my first time modifying things on a high end rifle and i dont want to mess anything up..
    im very thankful for your help :)
     
  10. C.Eaton

    C.Eaton Confirmed Anschutz Nut...

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    The action just sits on a 5mm washer which is not ideal. Get some 5mm thick steel, cut to fit the recess in the stock. Check everything for alignment by dry-fitting the plate, action and air reservoir. Then drill a hole through the plate to take the stock fixing bolt then epoxy the plate into the bottom of the stock.
    Before the epoxy cures, refit the action and secure using the stock bolt, refit the reservoir and check everything for alignment again.
    Congratulations you now have decent bedding in the stock for the action.
     
    ksts100 and Brent like this.
  11. Hubertus

    Hubertus New Member

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    Thats a really good idea with a steel plate. a piece of steel is coming at end of the week.

    what do you mean exactly with "refit the reservoir and check everything for aligment again"

    there is not much what can be aligned if i only use a 5mm steel plate or should i check the vertical aligment from the barrel band too ?

    would you use the barrel band with only one screw thats holding the action ?

    if not using the barrel band: cylinder touching wood ok ?

    i have seen a few videos on youtube "glass bedding" "rifle bedding" - is that something useful with the 9015 and the club stock ?
     
  12. C.Eaton

    C.Eaton Confirmed Anschutz Nut...

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    Once you cut the steel to size and then mark and drill the fixing hole through it, you need to make sure that the plate holds the action at the right height in the stock which is why you fix the action in the stock with the stock bolt and then see how the air reservoir fixes relative to the action and stock band.
    If you get the right thickness of steel then everything should line up perfectly.
    There will be a slight difference because the epoxy adds some thickness, but in reality you only use a thin layer which is just enough to fix the plate securely and take up any slight imperfections in the wood.
    When you apply the epoxy and fit the plate you need to work fast to get the action in lightly fixed with the stock bolt. You then fit the air reservoir and see how central it is in the stock band.
    Ideally you should be a touch high, then you slowly tighten the stock bolt to pull everything into line, once you are happy leave the rifle propped up horizontal until the epoxy has fully cured which with 5 minute epoxy will be a couple of hours ideally.

    If you really want to do a good job then you can go one stage further after this which is to carefully coat the front receiver block base and edges in sellotape then put epoxy into the front of the stock and squeeze into position.
    Once this has gone off and you remove the protective sellotape, you will have a front edge of epoxy set into the stock that perfectly aligns the action each time.
     
    garym likes this.
  13. Pavel

    Pavel New Member

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    You need a bedding.
    I made for my friend few months ago using this
    IMG_20190122_171620.jpg IMG_20190122_171553.jpg

    And result is this
    IMG_20181126_171735.jpg IMG_20181126_171846.jpg IMG_20181126_171915.jpg
     
    garym likes this.
  14. Hubertus

    Hubertus New Member

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    thanks for that great explanation!

    theses pictures are also very helpful :)

    i try to explain what my stock and action are doing right now:

    no barrel band installed, no steel plate - just the small 5mm washer and the screw. cylinder is attached and the muzzle is pointing to the sky: the cylinder is not touching wood and i can move the muzzle sligtly to the left and right!
    now im moving the rifle into the shooting position and the cylinder wents down and touches the stock. that should be normal, because the action is only secured with one screw and that tiny washer and the front part of the action is not touching the stock.

    would it be good if the action is bedded in a way, that it cant move even without the barrel band or would the cylinder generate too much pressure if its still floating without the barrel band even in the shooting position ?
     
  15. Hubertus

    Hubertus New Member

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    small update:

    temporary fittet a 5mm steel plate (not glued)
    and dovetail to weaver rail from utg UTG Europe GmbH - Hunting/Shooting, Sporting Goods and Security Gear
    it has a compensation build in and now im not running anymore out of elevation adjustment. its not perfectly fitting and slightly out of angle :(
    im looking forward for a higher quality dovetail to weaver rail but most of them are really high.. i dont need a higher scope for my benchrest shooting.

    i also bought a stick loctite EA 3463 and some kids dough for testing how much i really need.

    washer vs steel plate.jpg 9015 Scope.jpg
     
  16. mrgeoff

    mrgeoff Active Member

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    Broadlands / SOKE
    Jon Harris made me a fairly low rail with built in compensation for my 9015 as I only use it for benchrest.
     
  17. Hubertus

    Hubertus New Member

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    i bedded the action with loctite EA3463 Epoxy and it worked nearly really well. used a bit too much but i could fix that. pictures are coming later.

    now things went a bit strange because the power dropped from 540fps (factory adjustment, i did not changed anything) down to 440 fps (im limited to 7,5J)
    i adjusted the power back up with more preload but max. was 524 fps - more preload = power goes down
    around 524fps is ok for me but now the air consumption went trough the roof and between 60-70 bar (cylinder gauge, dont know how good is it)) suddenly all the air dumped out.

    im thinking that the regulator set point changed - could this cause theses kind of problems ?

    the regulator is adjusted from the action side and NOT from the cylinder side ? do i have to remove it ? if yes, did i have to seperate the two action pieces ?


    Edit:

    i could adjust the regulator with a 5mm allen / hex head l-shaped wrench
    i made ~1/4 clockwise turn
    623fps - a bit too hot
    turned the preload back so its now flush with its housing/tube again = 550 fps and thats ok.
    grabbed a random tin jsb 8,44gr and made a few shots at 25m (its snowing) but its looking very promising (better than it ever was lol)
    when i have found the best batch it should be easy to shot 10mm groups at 25m
     

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    Last edited: Jan 30, 2019
  18. Hubertus

    Hubertus New Member

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    weather went nice again after a few weeks of rain and windy conditions and i was able to put some good groups down the range.
    thank god my barrel seems to be not very pellet fuzzy because three different batches of jsb heavy did a nice job!
    some H&N FT Pellets were terrible (not showing on this card)

    1 euro cent is 16,25mm diameter
    2 euro cent is 18,75mm diameter

    shootings distance was 25m and 6-7 shots each. for further testing i will shot up to 20 shots for a better evaluation.
     

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  19. sven

    sven Active Member

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    FT Schalkhaar / SSV Ons Genoegen
    When you see a change in velocity after the bedding in the stock has changed this means your bedding is putting pressure on the action block. Somewhere the block is getting bend up. This causes the hammer to run slower. I had it with a 9015 in the Club stock. When mounted in the stock it shot about 20 m/s slower compared to shooting it without the stock on. In my case the rear end (threaded end) of the pressure cilinder was touching the stock.
    You can check this by shooting the rifle over chrono while loosening the stock screw, or shoot it with and without the stock on.
     

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